Cullen Skink, a Scottish smoked haddock and potato soup (gluten-free)

Few days ago the Scots - and friends of Scotland - celebrated yet another anniversary of the birth of Robert Burns, hosting or attending a Burns Supper. Any self-respecting Burns Supper begins with a proper Scottish soup. I've shared a recipe for Cock-a-leekie before, other options are Scotch broth and Cullen Skink.  Now it's time to share my recipe for the smoked haddock and potato soup - think of it as a Scotch chowder :)

The soup is from the North-East of Scotland, from the fishing town of Cullen. Originally it's a comfort food, cheap and easy fare, and it's still popular in and around Cullen. Yet somehow that humble soup has tranformed into a fancy fare to be enjoyed at various festive Scottish occasions.

Scots know their smoked fish. Arbroath Smokie is a pair of salted haddocks, hot-smoked in a humid smoking chamber. Finnan Haddie, the traditional fish used for making Cullen Skink, is gutted and cleaned haddock that's been dry-salted and then smoked in a cool smoking chamber for 8-9 hours. If Finnan Haddie is hard to find where you live - that's probably most of the world apart from the British Isles - (and avoid the bright yellow dyed stuff, it discolours the soup), then any other nice smoked white fish would do. I used smoked cod, a user of my Estonian Nami-Nami site said that the soup worked well with smoked herring.


Cullen Skink
(Šoti suitsukalasupp)
Serves 6 as a starter, 3 as a main dish




500 g smoked haddock (ideally Finnan Haddie)
500 ml (2 cups) of water
butter for frying
1 yellow onion, chopped
1 large leek, cleaned and sliced
2-4 floury potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
500 ml (2 cups) whole milk
1 bay leaf
salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh chives, finely minced

Place the fish into a pan, add the bay leaf and cold water. Gently bring into a boil, then simmer for about a minute or two. Remove the fish from the pan, transfer onto a plate and leave to cool. Keep the fish stock!

In another pot melt the butter gently. Add onion and leek, cover and sauté gently for a about 10 minutes. Stir every now and then, do not brown! Season with salt and pepper. Add potato pieces to the onion and leek, give it a stir. Add 500 ml/2 cups of fish stock, bring into a boil and simmer until the potato is cooked.

At the same time remove the fish from the bones carefully, flake into smaller pieces (discard the fish skin and bones). Using a slotted spoon, take couple of spoonfuls of the potato-leek mixture from the soup and put aside. Discard the bay leaf. Add the milk, bring gently into a boil. Add about half of the smoked fish. Mash the remaining soup or pureé using the hand-held/immersion blender. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve, place a large spoonful or two of potato-leek-smoked fish mixture into the middle of each soup bowl, then ladle the liquid soup neatly into the bowls as well. Garnish with chives and serve.

Simple Magic bars recipe

I was due to give a Scottish cookery class last Sunday in Aegviidu - a small town about an hour from Tallinn. While finalising the menu for the cookery class (skirlie and clapshot and cranachan and such like), I flipped again through the pages of Scottish author's Sue Lawrence's excellent "A Cook's Tour of Scotland: from Barra to Brora in 120 recipes". One of the last recipes in the book was for Anta Bars - a tray cake that Sue Lawrence was served at the Anta Pottery's tearoom in Fearn, Tain, near Ross-shire in the Scottish Highlands (see here for the exact address). Ingredients? Digestive biscuits, butter, sweet condensed milk, milk chocolate and desiccated coconut. Very similar to Magic bars, though these tend to have a layer of nuts included as well, and are layered somewhat differently (I rely on the Joy of Baking blog for this information).

I had a whole packet of sweet condensed milk I wanted to use, and while I really wanted to make the Millionaire's Shortbread, I decided to give these Anta Bars a go instead. Why? Well, for the Millionaire's Shortbread (also known as caramel shortbread) you need to boil the condensed milk first, whereas the Anta Bars have a layer of regular sweet condensed milk drizzled over the cookie crumb base. So much simpler and quicker.

A word of warning, however. While Scotland can be really proud about the great quality of their produce and ingredients (venison, lamb, beef, salmon, raspberries, shortcakes, haggis etc etc), then this cake is not the healthy option, for the fainthearted or for those counting their calories. It's extremely sweet. You know, tooth-achingly sweet. Definitely an occasional treat rather than your regular afternoon tea or coffee cake :)

Sue Lawrence's recipe was excellent - no surprise, as she is considered one of the best Scottish food writers of our times. However, I did reduce the amount of coconut flakes after the initial attempt, as I had hard time getting the original amount (170 g of desiccated coconut) to stick to the cake and not fall off. Also - even if you might be tempted to use dark chocolate instead of milk chocolate, perhaps to counteract the sweetness, then don't - this cake needs the much sweeter milk chocolate. Trust me, I tried both versions..

Anta Magic Bars or a recipe for caramel, milk chocolate and coconut slices
(Anta koogiruudud)
Source: Sue Lawrence's "A Cook's Tour of Scotland", sligthly adapted
Serves about 24



140 g butter, melted and cooled
350 g Digestive biscuits or graham crackers
300 g sweetened condensed milk
200 g good-quality milk chocolate, chopped (or use chips)
100 g desiccated coconut

Line a baking sheet/Swiss roll tin (about 25x35 cm) with a parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 180 C/350 F.
Finely crush the Digestive biscuits (I used my food processor), then mix thoroughly with melted butter. Spoon the biscuit mixture into the cake tin, pressing down. Drizzle the sweetened condensed milk evenly over crumb mixture.
Now scatter the chopped chocolate evenly on top, finally sprinkle with coconut flakes, patting down lightly.
Bake in the middle of the preheated oven for about 20 minutes, until the coconut is golden brown.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely before cutting into small squares or bars.

Other foodbloggers have been testing Sue Lawrence's recipes:
Cock-a-leekie soup by Pille @ Nami-Nami
Mince and tatties by Pille @ Nami-Nami
Chocolate brownie with raspberries by Pille @ Nami-Nami
Smoked salmon frittata by Pille @ Nami-Nami
Haggis and winter tzatziki wraps by Sophie @ Mostly Eating (intrigued!!!)
Passion cake by Maggie @ Kitchen Delights
German apple cake by Celia @ English patis

Scottish shortbread, the way I like it

There's a personal reason to celebrate all things Scottish today - namely, it was exactly seven years ago that I met my dear partner K. at a reception at the Scottish parliament in Edinburgh (housed in the lovely building behind me on the photo above, though the picture is taken about 7 months later), which eventually led me to moving back home to Estonia, and living a very happy life with a wonderful partner and two gorgeous kids. Oh, and a lovely garden.

The Scottish dish I'm celebrating today is the wonderful, melt-in-your-mouth, buttery Scottish shortbread. It's soft, yet crunchy - the crunchiness is enhanced by the use of fine semolina in the recipe. You cannot have a cup of tea without those, really.



Here's the home-made Scottish all-butter shortbread - the recipe is from Delia Smith - and as it's a pretty classic one, there's been no reason to change it. I used a special shortbread tin, marked with the thistle, but you can just as well use a regular springform tin or even roll the dough out and cut into preferred shapes with a cookie cutter (remember to adjust the cooking time for smaller cookies!)

Scottish butter shortbread
(Šoti liivaküpsised)

175 butter, at room temperature
75 g caster sugar
175 all-purpose flour, sifted
75 g fine semolina/cream of wheat
a pinch of salt

Preheat  the oven to 150 C/300 F.

Using your wooden spoon, cream the butter in a bowl.
Add the sugar, flour, semolina and salt. Mix with the spoon until combined, then use your hands to knead the dough (or simply use a food processor). Avoid over-working the dough, however, as the butter might melt and compromise the texture!
Transfer the cookie dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using the rolling pin, roll into a 20 cm circle and transfer it into a 20 cm springform. Press lightly, then pierce with a fork thoroughly (this keeps the shortcrust pastry from raising during baking).
Bake the shortbread for about 60 minutes in the centre of the preheated oven, until it's pale golden and feels firm to the touch.
Remove it from the oven and cut into 12 wedges.
Sprinkle generously with caster sugar, if you want, and store in an airtight box.

Another way of serving haggis, neeps & tatties

That's exactly how I saw haggis, neeps & tatties served at Peckhams on Nicholson Street in Edinburgh earlier this month (see photo here). I dined there with my friend Melinda on my first night in town, and I simply had to try this at home. Not bad, not bad at all :)

My sauce is a bit different, however - although unconventional, I want my haggis with a caramelised onion gravy.

MacSween of Edinburgh haggis is one food-related thing I miss from Scotland every now and then...

Takeaway Scottish porridge

If you're one of those persons that starts each new year with new and promising resolutions of eating more healthily, exercising more etc, then we're in the same boat. I haven't even thought of my list for 2007 yet, but one of the items on that list should be 'eating more porridge'. Firstly, a proper porridge is one of the healthiest breakfasts you can think of. It's warming properties make it especially suitable for chilly winter mornings. It's a real fast food, usually not taking more than five minutes to make. It's also really-really cheap, even if packed into fancy portion-sized sachets. It can be really tasty (I'm particularly partial to a local four-cereal porridge containing full corn rye, oats, wheat and barley), especially if served with a dollop of home-made jam.

Despite of this, I still grab a pot of yogurt or make a sandwich more often that I'd like to...

But let me tell you, I'd eat even more porridge, if there'd be Stoats Porridge Bar near me. These canny mobile porridge bars were found in early 2005 by couple of Scottish guys. They were rather conveniently located at the Meadows in Edinburgh, which is close to university. They also have a stand (sorry, a mobile porridge bar) at the Edinburgh Farmers Market on Saturday mornings as you can see from the picture below.



Basically, these guys have sexed up the humble porridge. They use the best type of organic oatmeal, and turn it into creamy and silky porridge. As if this isn't good enough on its own, they serve the porridge with fantastic optional extras. The menu reads like a cake selection in a fancy cafe: white chocolate & roasted hazelnuts; whisky & honey; chunky orange marmalade, etc. My favourite was Cranachan porridge:



Cranachan is a Scottish pudding I've mentioned before (here). For this porridge, creamy organic oatmeal was mixed with some cream, whisky toasted oats (they even use my favourite whisky from Jon, Mark and Robbo Easy Drinking Whisky) and topped with fresh raspberries.

As good as it gets.

I'm off to make my new year's resolutions list...

Three girls and a a lot of whisky

Just few days before I left Edinburgh, my friends Oxana and Galina took me to The Vaults, the members' rooms of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society in Leith, Edinburgh. I hadn't managed to go there during my seven years in town, but had been curious since I read Melissa's post on whisky tasting notes. Luckily, Oxana was a member and offered to take me there and sample some of the current society bottlings. During the few enjoyable and merry hours we spent in the grand surroundings, we tried quite a few whiskies, as you can see from the picture*. Four Scotch, one Japanese whisky.



Society bottlings, if you're interested, are single malt and cask strength (that means very strong!), and come with curious tasting notes. Here's how the Society describes them:

The Society exists to celebrate variations from the norm, so members can enjoy the individual characteristics each cask has to offer in terms of distillery, age, finish etc. Once the Society has bought single casks from the range of distilleries, the respected Tasting Panel is responsible for quality control and takes the decision as to which casks should be bottled and when. From there, the Panel writes the Society's lyrical and often humourous (even controversial) Tasting Notes.

Below are the 'official' tasting notes for the whiskies we tasted that night. We had real fun trying to smell and taste the 'fruity toffee', 'white wine vinegar, matches and glue', 'peat dragon', 'sultana loaf', 'carpentry shavings, barbecue sauce and bacon fat' etc in our chosen whiskies. I wish I could be a fly on the wall where the honourable Tasting Panel meets and comes up with those descriptions!

As I said, we tasted four Scottish and one Japanese whisky that night. Four of them were wonderful, all in their distinct ways. Only one I couldn't drink, however much I diluted the whisky. Some things, it seems, are best left to the original masters...

Strawberry bon-bons sprinkled with white pepper
Cask No. 22.22
"Being a ‘Classic’ we don’t see that much of ‘The Edinburgh Malt’, from Pencaitland; this example is surprisingly big and complex for a Lowland – a first-rate aperitif. Full gold in colour (from a refill hogshead) this has a fine mature nose, with vanilla and fruity toffee (strawberry bon-bons: toffee centre, fruity coating, powdered sugar dusting), traces of mint and very faint hessian. The unreduced flavour is hot and peppery, with toffee notes. These elements come through on the nose with water, but with bubble-gum and moss. Now the flavour is soft and full; sweet and fudge-like, but with chilli-pepper, and a medium to long finish."
Age: 18 Years % Alc: 53.5% Proof°: 93.6 Date Distilled: October 1987 Outturn: 178 bottles

Cigar boxes and flying saucers
Cask No. 9.38
"James Grant built this Rothes distillery in 1840 and today it is one of the best selling malts in the world. A golden syrup colour from a refill butt, the unreduced nose has strawberries, cigar boxes, wine gums and flying saucers (sherbet wrapped in edible polystyrene). The taste neat is thick and weighty with melted chocolate and creamy toffee. It lasts well with a dry, woody finish. With water the nose, though still sweet, has white wine vinegar, matches and glue, while the flavour is sweet and salty with some soap on a cereal background."
Age: 17 Years % Alc: 54.9% Proof°: 96 Date Distilled: April 1988 Outturn: 552 bottles

Nettle chocolate
Cask No. 48.9
"Situated in the Haughs of Cromdale, this distillery takes its water from the Cromdale Burn. Unreduced, the nose has unusual notes of smoked sausage, paprika and pepper gradually becoming toffee, vanilla, malt, mint, grass and sherbet. The taste is chocolaty and sugary with sweet sherbet lemons and the sourness of cranberries. Reduced, the nose is dominated by nettle, followed by grass, hay, mulch and notes of wet leaves on a tree. This is a cooling, refreshing beginners’ whisky – ideal for lying in the garden with a slab of mint chocolate on a summer’s evening!"
Age: 18 Years % Alc: 50.1% Proof°: 87.6 Date Distilled: March 1988 Outturn: 298 bottles

Old but still bright
Cask No. 58.11
"This sample, from the oldest distillery in Speyside, is mahogany in colour from a sherry hogshead. The oak has left its mark – polished furniture, tea, spice – yet it remains bright! The neat nose has sweetness (honey, toffee, caramel, candy floss, brown sugar) balanced by fruit (orange, pears, prunes, raisins, dates and sultana loaf) with a sniff of smoke and some rum notes. The palate is dry, sweet and spicy with pepper, burnt sugar, marmalade and cola. With water, the nose finds a tingle of tar which eventually turns to buttery toffee, while the palate remains sweet and fruity. An outstanding dram."
Age: 33 Years % Alc: 51.4% Proof°: 89.9 Date Distilled: April 1973 Outturn: 352 bottles

From Madeira to the Caribbean
Cask No. 116.9
"This northern Japanese distillery continues to employ coal-fired stills. This sample is ginger gold from a refill hoggie. The nose, with its Muscovado sugar, treacle and rum, orange, plum and toffee in wax paper, evokes Caribbean trade winds and bronzed, oiled bodies basking in the sun. Diluted, it has vanilla, barley sugar, candied Angelica and papaya with exotic floral scents reminiscent of a Funchal market. The taste has both briny notes and peat smoke, which are beautifully balanced by a headier atmosphere of vanilla and orange peel. Water sweetens it and draws out the peat dragon at the same time. This is an outstanding whisky."
Age: 18 Years % Alc: 55.2% Proof°: 96.6 Date Distilled: April 1987 Outturn: 229 bottles

* Before you jump into conclusions about my drinking habits, then we ordered five different whiskies and split each of them between three glasses:)

All my bags are packed, I'm ready to go...

Indeed. All of the sudden, my seven years in Edinburgh have come to an end. When I first arrived in Scotland to do my Master's degree back in 1998, I came for a year. When I returned for my PhD in 2000, I came for three. But some things take time, sometimes you do things you didn't intend to, and one thing leads to another. My PhD led to a post-doc and then to another. In January I began another three-year research post here in Scotland, so I would have had to be here until the end of 2008. Yet, once more, things took an unexpected turn. Out of the blue (well, almost) I got homesick, began missing my friends and family, plus I met K. Though there are still several items I haven't ticked of this list of 'Things for a foodie to do in Scotland', there's a lot waiting for me at home. It's time to go.

I've had wonderful time here in Edinburgh. Yes, the weather sucks, but at least the winters are really mild. I've met some wonderful people from all over the world, and made friends for life. I've had my fair share of haggis, neeps & tatties, learnt to tell my Gay Gordon from The Dashing White Sergeant at a Ceilidh. As an icing on a cake, I've now even tried the infamous Scottish delicacy, deep-fried Mars Bar (see photo above). The latter was offered in one Edinburgh chippy for £2.50 for a big portion with chips, £2.30 for a small portion with chips (not sure if the brown sauce and ketchup were included in the price), or if you're really mean, then you can just order the deep-fried Mars Bar for £1.00. Don't ask..

So last night I had a big farewell do at Chai Teahouse for my friends in Edinburgh & Glasgow (thanks to everybody* who came!!!) . It was a great occasion with good fingerfood and great cocktails. Their Black Tea Martini was lipsmackingly good, and I really enjoyed the house cocktails consisting of vodka, lemon juice and green tea.

In just a few hours I'll be catching a flight home via Manchester and Helsinki. I'll probably take few days off to recover from the ordeal, but soon I'll blog again. From a new kitchen, from a new place. I hope you'll be still here..

* Emma & Michael, Antonis, Nash, Merilin & Dominic, Annika W, Annika B, Wilfried & Niranjan, Galina & Alexandr, Oxana, Adi, David, Risto, Lea & Helmi & Halliki, Helen, Kersti, Kerttu, Melinda, James O, James M, Ryoko, Dianne & Peter, Annemieke & Georgios, Hashemi, Siim, Gorev, Ceci, Nenya & Richard.

A Turkish delight: Hanedan in Edinburgh

Gürsel Bahar, the chef & proprietor of Hanedan, July 2006

Hanedan opened in June 2004, yet it was imprinted in my head even before that. You see, it was exactly on my route from home to my regular breakfast-coffee place, Peckhams on South Clark Street, so I was passing it pretty much daily. Also, as I shared a flat with a Turkish girl at the time, a sign announcing "A Turkish restaurant opening soon" simply caught my eye. Quite soon afterwards, I realised that the chef enjoyed his morning coffee at Peckhams on a regular basis, too, and we began exchanging hellos and engaging in small talk. I found out that Gürsel had lived & worked in London for 16 years, where he worked 9 years with Sir Terence Conran at his Quaglino's Restaurant in St James. But as his wife was Scottish, it was inevitable that they'd move back to her homeland at one point.

Few months after befriending the chef over my breakfast coffee, I decided to pay his new eaterie a visit. I liked the food, and alongside with my other local restaurant, the Jamaican Coyaba, it quickly became my regular haunt. It was there that I took my parents, sister and nephew to celebrate my graduation last summer. I've had numerous meals there since, most recently last Saturday with my friends Michael & Emma. Hanedan has a lovely and inviting atmosphere, being obviously popular both with local Southsiders, as well as others, and it's always a pleasure to go back.

The first few times I opted for the mixed meze starter, lalezar (£6.75 per person), consisting of humuz (pureed chickpeas with sesame oil and lemon juice), herkez bayildi (roast aubergine, onion, tomato sauce and herbs), barbunya pilaki (olive oil braised red kidney beans), ispanakli yogurt (strained yogurt and spinach with garlic, served with a delicious pinch of sumac on top), firin kofte (oven baked mincd meat balls) and yaprak dolma (stuffed wine leaves). But the chef was 'complaining' that I'm not giving his other, 'proper' dishes a chance, so some time last autumn I 'upgraded' and began ordering mezes as well as main courses. I've never had to regret that, as the food has always been delicious, flavoursome and filling, and the service efficient and friendly (which cannot be said about another well-established Turkish restaurant in town, which I've stopped visiting since a rather unpleasant encounter in August).

If I am allowed to grumble just a little, then it's the limited choice of mains for vegetarians - Biberli makarna (pasta, red pepper sauce & feta cheese, £6.90) and Sebzeli musakka (vegetable moussaka, £7.90). And it would be also nice for his regular customers if he'd occasionally change his two-course menu offer (£7.95). That said, however, there are plenty of vegetarian meze dishes to choose from, with ispanakli yogurt (£2.90), herkes bayildi (£ 3.20) and helim izgara (perfectly grilled haloumi cheese, £3.60) being my favourites. And the main dishes are reasonably priced, too. His kuzu shish (a substantial portion of marinated grilled lamb on skewer, £7.90) simply melts in your mouth - I've never had meat so moist and tender before. Apparently the 'secret' to this dish is 'gentle massage' (though the Chef has now shared his recipe for the rub mixture with me:) My other favourites are tavuk guvech (sauteed chicken with onion, mushroom and tomato, £7.50, on the left), and tavuk shish (marinated grilled chicken on skewer, £7.75).

There are some Turkish wines on the wine list, and Efes Pilsen is available. And their baklava (filo pastry with mixed nuts & honey syrup, £2.90) is mouthwatering, light and rich at the same time. Highly recommended, whether you're sipping Turkish apple tea or a strong Turkish coffee which is served in cheerful tiny cups. Or, if you're up for it, some raki. Or why not both...

I'll miss this place. But then I do have the secret recipes for some of Gürsel's dishes in my pocket now:)

Some useful Turkish phrases from their menu:
Bu aksham olmaz - Not tonight.
Bisiklet pompani alabilirmiyim? - May I borrow your bicycle pump?
Gunde bir paket sigara iciyorum - I smoke a packet a day*

Note that booking is pretty much essential during weekends - I've been turned away on many occasions.

Hanedan
41-42 West Preston Street
Edinburgh EH8 9PY
Tel. 0131 667 4242
Lunch 12-3pm, Dinner 5.30pm till late, closed on Monday
website

* Even if you do, don't try to lit your cigaret while in Hanedan. Like all other public drinking & eating venues in Scotland, it's been smoke-free since March 2006. Bliss!

A delicious weekend with Johanna

A view from the Edinburgh Castle, September 2006

One of the unexpected, joyful and most rewarding 'side-effects' of foodblogging is the number of new friends I've made, not talking about widening my culinary horizons, knowledge about food and recipe repertoire. Johanna of The Passionate Cook is one of these friends. I first met Johanna, who is originally from Austria, at the 'tiny' gathering of foodbloggers in London in March, kindly organised by Andrew. This was followed by Johanna's and Jeanne's blog birthday party in June, where, after a great evening, I was also treated to a fantastic brunch on the patio the following morning. It was then that Johanna told me she had never been to Edinburgh. As I'm soon leaving Scotland, she thought it would be a good idea to pop up before I go.

And so it happened that Johanna was in Edinburgh just over a week ago, and we spent a wonderful food-packed weekend together. In less that 48 hours we managed to have a cuppa at The Elephant House (supposedly the place where J K Rowling wrote the first of her Harry Potter books), drooled over the amazingly decorated chocolates at Plaisir du Chocolat, stopped for another coffee and lemonade at VinCaffè, and had an enjoyable dinner with Melissa at (the fair-trade/free range/organic/local sourcing restaurant) Urban Angel, followed by a visit to the quirky whisky haven, The Canny Man's, in Morningside. On Sunday, we had a brunch at Centotre (their Cenerentola, a fresh fruit drink made with freshly squeezed orange juice, passion fruit & pineapple is my huge favourite), marvelled at the bounty available and had another cup of coffee at the oldest Italian deli (established in 1934) Valvona & Crolla, stocked up on Scottish cheese at Ian Mellis Cheesemonger and checked out the Mexican delights at Lupe Pintos deli. And finally, after having covered many kilometres by foot walking around Edinburgh, we had a most delicious and luxurious meal (and a great value one at that, £12.95 for the 2-course pre-theatre menu) at The Witchery, the restaurant underneath acclaimedly one of the most romantic and decadent hotels out there.

I didn't take any pictures - Johanna had a great camera with a fancy objective, so I kept my wee baby-cam firmly inside my handbag. But do check out the the pictures and read Johanna's post about The Witchery instead. There is, indeed, so much more to Edinburgh & Scotland than deep-fried Mars bars and haggis, neeps and tatties.

One state visit and one pub night

I briefly hinted in a previous post that somebody important was coming for a visit and that I was looking for a suitable venue with some Edinburgh-based Estonians. Well, that important visitor was our head of state, President Arnold Rüütel. Queen Elizabeth II will be on a state visit in Estonia in October, but apparently Her Royal Highness cannot visit a state if the head of that state has not visited her beforehand. So Estonian President Arnold Rüütel came to meet Queen Elizabeth II at Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh. And what does the president of Estonia do on a night before having tea with the Queen? He's going for a pint in a pub with a bunch of local Estonians, of course.



Here is a picture of my friend Kerttu, me, President Arnold Rüütel and his wife Ingrid at Tolbooth Tavern, Canongate, Royal Mile, Edinburgh. There were just over 20 of us - MacEstonians - present, plus the President's entourage, and the president spent an hour in the pub before returning to his hotel.



This is Doug, the very friendly publican with a choice of five beers (my personal degustation session on previous Thursday).

You can see some more pictures of President's visit here.

Vacation alert 2006:2 - Sweden & Estonia:
I'm off again. On Friday night I'll fly to Stockholm, where my Edinburgh-based Swedish friend Annika is getting married on Saturday. I'll wander around th Gamla Stan during Sunday, before flying to Estonia in the evening. I cannot wait - I haven't seen my family and friends since early January, and K. since our trip to Paris in May. It's a short trip - a weekend in Stockholm followed by just nine days at home, but I hope to find time to do some of the usual stuff - beating myself with fresh birch branches, eating wild yellow chantarelles and wild strawberries to my heart's content, driving around the beautiful countryside and that kind of things..

I'm embracing Scottish beef: mince and tatties

Salty (sponsored by the Scottish Executive) and Pille (the writer of this blog) in front of the Scottish Parliament in June 2006.

I've been singing praises to the Scottish beef before, and am doing it again to mark the Edinburgh Cow Parade, a charity & public arts event that runs until July 23rd. Writing about Scottish beef is also timely, considering that the first ever Scotch beef ambassador was announced a fortnight ago by Scotland's 'food minister' Ross Finnie MSP. The honour goes to Cees Helder of the Rotterdam-based 3-Michelin-starred Parkheuvel restraurant.

The upmarket supermarket Waitrose has just opened its first two stores in Scotland earlier this month, and I picked up some rather nice-looking beef mince when I was checking out the store. Although the recipe itself is humble, the mince is of the highest quality, made of 'richly flavoured, succulent & tender beef, produced from cattle bred from registered pedigree Aberdeen Angus bulls'. Hence totally blog-worthy :-)

Mince and Tatties
(Mince & tatties ehk hakkliharoog šoti moodi)
Slightly adapted from Scots cooking by Sue Lawrence
Serves 4



a knob of butter
500 grams best quality beef steak mince
1 medium-sized red onion, finely chopped
1 green/fresh garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tsp Marmite*
salt
freshly ground black pepper
3-4 Tbsp boiling water
a splash of Worcestershire sauce

Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add the mince and pan-fry over a high heat for about 5 minutes until browned evenly.
Add the onion and garlic, stir in the Marmite and season with salt and pepper. Add the boiling water, stir well. Cover the saucepan with a lid and simmer over a medium heat for about 20 minutes.
Before serving, add a splash of Worcestershire sauce and season with salt and pepper again, if required.
Serve piping hot with boiled new potatoes (I used Jersey Royals again) and green peas.

* Marmite, for those of you who don't know, is a nutritious yeast extract, and a very good source of B vitamins. You can read all about the history and benefits of Marmite here. Adding it to the mince above adds a lovely savoury touch. The Brits usually spread it thinly onto their toast.

Restaurant review: Coyaba, Edinburgh (aka Defeatism or how I can't resist you, chicken ku-ya)

Last Friday night. A Swedish friend of mine, Annika, has invited me and her friend Sarah, who is visiting from Aberystwyth, for a meal. We agree to go to one of my favourite places in town, a Jamaican restaurant Coyaba in Edinburgh Southside. Since I first went there for the departmental Xmas lunch in December 2004, I've been back pretty much every month. I'm literally looking for excuses to go there - a celebration of one kind or another, a visiting friend, meal out with colleagues - anything will do. The place is atmospheric, food tasty and different from my everyday fare. Granted, the service can occasionally be somewhat on the relaxed side, but it is only part of the Jamaican experience.

The menu is tempting, the reviews positively raving. And yet, all but once I've had exactly the same main dish: Chicken Ku-ya, described on the menu simply as "Stewed until 'oh so tender' in a rich brown tomato, onion and garlic gravy". The one time I didn't, I ordered Jah Bless Tofu (seasoned tofu, sweet pepper and mushrooms cooked with coconut milk), which was tasty (though how come I ordered a tofu dish at a Jamaican place is a bit unclear). I've had various bites off the plates of kind friends, and can testify that Escoveitch Fish (fresh catch of the day marinated in chef's special spices, pan - fried and served with a tomato, honey, and scotch bonnet pepper escoveitch sauce) is flavoursome and crispy, Jerk Chicken (marinated in special jerk sauce with pimento and thyme. Authentic Jamaican fare) kickingly hot, Traditional Curry Goat (goat cooked slowly until tender, rich and spicy - one of our favourites) indeed rich and spicy. The starters I've had - Festival & Callaloo (truly Jamaican special light bread with spicy Ital greens) and Ackee & Saltfish (Jamaica's national dish cooked in olive oil with tomato and served with a light corn dumpling) - especially the latter, are substantially filling and heartily recommended. I cannot comment on the puds, as I've never had any space for one left. And I'm definitely a pudding girl..

All these dishes have been absolutely delicious. Yet, as I said, I've had the same chicken dish every single time (but once). Each time before going to Coyaba, I decide to behave as appropriate to a true foodie and order something new from the menu. Use the opportunity to broaden my culinary horizon*, to tiltillate my tastebuds with something different.

Last Friday was no different. I promised to myself before leaving my place that I'll have something new.

After a five minute brisk walk across the Meadows, I am seated in the intensely deep red dining room, listening to the reggae soundtrack. The place is buzzing with satisfied diners. I nibble on the plantain crisps, sip my glass of Ruby Cabernet and glance at the menu, avoiding looking at any items containing poultry. Yep, this time I'm gonna be different and decide to go for the Fenky Fenky fish (fresh catch of the day - seabass on Friday - lightly poached in coconut milk with okra and sweet peppers and a little chilli). My friends opt for Jerk chicken and Escoveitch Fish. I'm pleased with myself. I'm gonna try something new.

So how, oh how, I end up ordering Chicken Ku-ya just 2 minutes later? Again? For the 10th time? Within one year?

I admit defeat..



* Maybe it's not my fault. My gastrological statement clearly reads that "a large proportion [of Taureans] have a particular resistance to trying anything unfamiliar."

COYABA
Jamaican Restaurant
113 Buccleuch Street
Edinburgh EH8 9NG
Phone: 0131 662 9111
info@coyaba.co.uk

Valik jamaika retsepte

Celebrating Burns’ Night: Gie her a haggis!

This is my nod to the Scottish national poet Robert Burns, whose 237th birth anniversary was celebrated yesterday all over Scotland and elsewhere in the world. Traditionally copious amounts of haggis, neeps and tatties, as well as whisky, are consumed to celebrate the Bard's life. However, as I was planning to eat in solitude last night (failed miserably, but that's only good:), I was thinking of something a lot lighter and easier to eat. Something that you can eat while watching yet another episode of Desperate Housewives, for instance..



I made potato shortcrust canapés filled with haggis and topped with a rich shallot and whisky gravy. Although it lacks the neeps/turnip element (not my fault, read the note at the bottom), it does combine the haggis, tatties/potatoes and whisky.

I used the same potato shortcrust pastry that I had prepared for my first (and thus far last) Paper Chef entry. The haggis was a mini sized one from MacSween of Edinburgh, of course. And for the gravy I slowly fried some finely chopped shallots, made into a thick gravy, and added a very generous splash of my favourite whisky at the end.

The rest was easy – pop the hot shortcrust cases onto a plate, stuff each with a spoonful of steaming haggis (I bake mine in the oven usually) and top with a tiny dollop of onion whisky gravy.

As it turned out, I didn't eat these on my own after all. I mentioned mini haggis tarts to a friend on the phone, and within minutes she was over at my place with another friend. And we finished them well in advance of Desperate Housewives... The potato cases were perfectly crunchy and worked well with the crumbly-soft haggis and slightly sticky boozy whisky glaze. We all liked these, despite of having had dinner just before...

I wish I could tell you that some of the canapés are with potato shortcrust cases and some with turnip shortcrust cases. Unfortunately, my local Tesco had forgotten that there may be some Scots who fancy eating turnips that night together with their potatoes and haggis. So they had forgotten to order extra. To top this, they had also run out of haggis by 7pm!!! Whoever is ordering the stock for that particular branch, should be fired! Thank god for Peckham's, who had ordered extra haggis, so I could go ahead with my plan after all...

A Scottish supper

As I mentioned in my previous post, I had another Estonian friend visiting and I treated Margit, her colleague and another MacEstonian to a Scottish meal. The Estonian visitors had heard rumours of haggis, the Scottish national dish of lamb bits and other things, so I decided to make some exactly a week ago. My choice of haggis is MacSween of Edinburgh, and I bought both a vegetarian and traditional version. These were served with neeps (alias mashed turnip, seasoned with butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg) and tatties (potato mash, seasoned with salt, pepper, milk and butter).



We drank my current favourite whisky and Whisky Mac cocktails. For the latter you mix 1.5 oz Scotch whisky and 1 oz green ginger wine. I suspect my ginger wine (not easy to find!) wasn't the green one, as the cocktail was way too sweet compared to the one I usually get served in pubs (which I love).

And for the dessert, I made cranachan again, this time adding mascarpone cheese for the mixture.



Apart from mishaps with the whisky cocktail, the meal was lovely. My visiting friend was surprised that mashed turnip tastes so sweet and nice, and both of them bought some haggis to take home with. And they know where to find a recipe for cranachan..

Been there, done that?

There have been various lists of what a true foodie should do around recently in the foodblogosphere. I seem to remember it was kick-started (at least in the UK) by the Observer Food Magazine on May 15, 2005, when it published its list of The top 50 things every foodie should do. The things I can tick off that list are unfortunately very few, though I am happy to note that I have window-shopped (or is that stall-shopped?) at La Boqueria in Barcelona at least. Last weekend Scotland on Sunday (alias the Sunday version of The Scotsman newspaper) published a Scottish equivalent of this list. I've copy-pasted it here with few comments.
It would also be interesting to hear from other foodbloggers who either live in Scotland (Melissa of The Traveler's Lunchbox) or who have visited Scotland recently (Michele of Oswego Tea and Gemma of Pro Bono Baker pop to my mind) if they've done anything that's mentioned on the list..
I will try during the next months (and years) to work and eat my way through the list. Time and financies permitting obviously...

50 things every foodie should do in Scotland
SALLY RAIKES
Scotland on Sunday, October 9, 2005
Spectrum: Scotland's larder. Autumn food and drink special

1) Hire Martin Wishart for the night
The Michelin-starred chef, who runs his eponymous restaurant in Leith, now offers a bespoke dining service too. He will concoct a mouthwatering menu for you and your guests and send a team of chefs into your kitchen (who'll offer tips if you're interested) - and they even do the washing-up.
(0131 553 8998, www.martin-wishart.co.uk)

2) Book a table at the Witchery
Dine by candlelight in a 16th-century building at the gates of Edinburgh Castle. Nothing beats it for atmosphere, and the food is fabulous. Signature dishes include hot smoked salmon with leeks and hollandaise, and Angus beef fillet with smoked garlic broth. Jack Nicholson, Joanna Lumley, Michael Douglas and many other celebrities have dined here. Afterwards, slope off upstairs for the night in one of its truly decadent suites. Castlehill, Royal Mile, Edinburgh (0131 225 5613, www.thewitchery.com)
I ate at The Witchery some two years ago. It was gorgeously atmospheric - and their £10 two-course pre- or post-theatre menu isn't so bad at all.

3) Go to a fishmarket
Set your alarm clock and catch a live auction at Peterhead fishmarket. You will need to wear a protective white boilersuit and brave the fishy pong, but it's worth it - put in a bid and you'll have the freshest tuna in town.
Monday to Friday at 7.30am, by appointment only (01779 483600 - ask for Andrew Cowe)

4) Make a mean curry
Indian food doesn't get much tastier than at the Suruchi restaurants in Edinburgh. If you're inspired by their use of herbs and spices, sign up to one of the cookery demonstrations which owners Herman and Abha Rodrigues offer throughout the year.
14a Nicholson Street (0131 556 6583) and 121 Constitution Street (0131 554 3268)
Again, I've eaten there with my Danish "host-parents" a few years ago - I cannot really recall what I ate precisely, but it was definitely a pleasant dining experience.

5) Spend a weekend at the Three Chimneys
Eddie and Shirley Spear's restaurant in the north-west corner of Skye is hardly short of accolades. Serving the freshest local produce in a cosy lochside setting, this is one of the most scenic places in Scotland to dine. Stay in a bedroom suite here and you'll awake to a view stretching to the Outer Hebrides. It's the ultimate foodie pilgrimage.
Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye (01470 511358, www.threechimneys.co.uk)
Nope, I have not had the pleasure yet. But I have been drooling over Shirley Spear's new cookbook that looks really good.

6) Join the Scotch Malt Whisky Society
Fans of cask-strength malt can pick from a vast selection of whisky at the Vaults in Leith and at the society's latest venue, 28 Queen Street, Edinburgh. Both hold regular events, tastings and suppers.
(0131 555 2929, www.smws.co.uk)

7) Order a takeaway with a difference
Fresh prawns and king scallops can be seared to order from the Fish and Chip Van, on the island of Mull, and it couldn't be closer to the source. Eat the day's catch by the Clock Tower or sitting on the seafront with views of the bay. It beats a kebab any day. April to December, noon to 9pm.
Fisherman's Pier, Tobermory, Mull (01688 302390, www.silverswift.co.uk)

8) Dine aboard the Royal Scotsman
You'll be spoilt rotten on board this luxury train - the rich, seasonal food (which miraculously appears from a tiny galley kitchen), spectacular ever-changing scenery and impeccable service make it a journey to remember.
46a Constitution Street, Leith, Edinburgh (0131 555 1344, www.royalscotsman.com)

9) Eat a real Arbroath smokie
Buy a couple of these wood-smoked haddock wrapped in newspaper and tied up with string, and eat them with bread, rocket and tomatoes on the beach in Arbroath - or, better still, at half-time watching the Red Lichties play football at Gayfield Park. Get them at a farmers' market from Iain Spink, of RR Spink & Sons.
Sir William Smith Road, Kirkton Industrial Estate, Arbroath (01241 872023, www.rrspink.com, www.arbroathsmokies.net)

10) Lick a Luca's ice-cream
With ice-cream made daily to a 100-year-old recipe, a visit to Luca's is the perfect excuse for a Sunday-afternoon outing. There is a savoury menu too, but you might prefer to tuck straight into a magnificent knickerbocker glory. Bibs are optional.
32 High Street, Musselburgh (0131 665 2237); 16 Morningside Road, Edinburgh (0131 446 0233, www.s-luca.co.uk)
Hurray, another one that can be ticked off! Had a small scoop of vanilla ice cream at their Morningside branch just last Friday!

11) Quaff champagne and oysters
Oysters don't come fresher than at the bar at the head of Loch Fyne. And knowing that the contents of your seafood platter were caught just metres from your seat makes it taste better still. A dozen of these sexy little things costs £11.50.
Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, Clachan, Cairndow, Argyll (01499 600236, www.lochfyne.com)

12) Queue for a fish supper
Some might argue that a sizzling hot, battered haddock tastes all the better for the wait. In summer, the Anstruther Fish Bar has a long line all the way down the street. The owners of this award-winning chippie take great pride in what they do; as they say, you're only as good as your last fish supper.
42-44 Shore Street, Anstruther, Fife (01333 310518, www.insiteswd.co.uk/theanstrutherfishbar)

13) Satisfy your chocolate craving
Indulge in a chocolate espresso at Plaisir du Chocolat, a French tea shop in Edinburgh. For an even bigger hit, hire its chocolate fountain.
251 Canongate, Royal Mile, Edinburgh (0131 556 9524)
Have eaten at this place quite a few times and can highly recommend it.

14) Spend a weekend wine-tasting
Edinburgh's Malmaison hotel has opened a fully equipped wine-tasting room that caters for up to 15 people. Hire it along with head sommelier Johnny Walker, who will guide you through the hotel's lengthy wine list. Follow this with dinner and a night in one of the refurbished rooms. A two-night stay, with wine-tasting and dinner on Saturday night, starts from £199 per person
(Malmaison, 1 Tower Place, Edinburgh, 0131 468 5001, www.malmaison.com)

15) Cocktails at Harvey Nichols
You'll want a clear, calm and sunny afternoon for a cocktail on the terrace at Harvey Nichols' Forth Floor restaurant, where the views extend to Fife. It's the ideal spot to show Edinburgh off to visitors - or to remind yourself just how much you love the city.
30 St Andrew Square (0131 524 8350, www.harveynichols.com)
I have been to Harvey Nick's food section often, but have not had any drinks at the bar yet. But a friend of mine was only recently headhunted to work there as a barman, so their cocktails must be very very good indeed.

16) Cook some comfort food
Longer nights mean the chance to cosy up to some hearty home-cooking, so give the frozen pizza a miss and sit down to Scotch broth and stovies or MacSween's haggis and clapshot. Guaranteed to bring a glow to a cold weekday evening.
MacSween's haggis is my favourite haggis as well, with neeps and tatties and a wee dram.

17) Enrol at Nick Nairn's cook school
Roll up your sleeves and don your pinny: the celebrity chef's state-of-the-art cooking school, tucked away in the Trossachs, is the place to hone your culinary skills. With a charismatic team of helpers and the chance to sample your efforts at the end of the day, Ramsay's Kitchen Nightmares this is not.
Port of Menteith, Stirling (01877 389900, www.nicknairncookschool.com)

18) Support your local butcher
Whether it's for Aberdeen Angus steaks, sliced square sausage or black pudding, Scottish meats are legendary. And they don't come better than from someone who knows just how long your fillet has been hung and where it comes from.
I have a favourite butcher at the Edinburgh Farmer's Market. All my sausages, bacon and pork come from Puddledub Pork and Fifeshire Bacon Co.

19) Sugar highs
Casey's sells humbugs, gobstoppers and pear drops by the weight from old-fashioned jars, while Moffat Toffee's speciality is made from a recipe dating from the 1880s. Or, make your own tablet - there's a recipe at www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/usrecipes/scottishtablet.
Casey's, 52 St Mary's Street, Edinburgh (0131 556 6082); Moffat Toffee, High Street, Moffat (01683 220032)

20) Dine on fresh lobster in Crail
Drive up the Fife coast to the picturesque fishing village of Crail. The Lobster Store is a tiny hut on the harbour, where fresh lobster or crab is cooked while you wait. Bring a half-bottle of supermarket bubbly to go with it.

21) Get an altitude
You could wolf down a baguette and pork pie on an icy chair lift, but refuelling at the Ptarmigan restaurant, the UK's highest (3,600ft), is more civilised. Providing it's not swathed in cloud, you'll enjoy fantastic views as you feast on local produce.
(01479 861336, www.cairngormmountain.com)

22) Stock up at a Chinese supermarket
Scotland is riddled with takeaways, but could a Chinese supermarket stocking all those elusive ingredients inspire you to make your own chow mein? Try Lims Chinese supermarket in Glasgow.
63 Cambridge Street, Glasgow (0141 332 9399)
There are few nice Chinese supermarkets in Edinburgh, too, so this one I can tick off as well.

23) Eat cheese
Visit Iain Mellis's emporium for a mouthwatering selection of British and Irish farmhouse cheeses. The best part is, you can try before you buy. There are four shops in Edinburgh and one in Glasgow (www.ijmellischeesemonger.com). Alternatively, visit his suppliers direct - such as Reades' farm in Tobermory, Mull, for a freshly cut wedge from one of its 50lb truckles (www.isleofmullcheese.co.uk), or Humphrey Errington, at Walston Braehead Farm, in Carnwath (01899 810257).
Indeed. Their shops in Bruntsfield and on Victoria Streets are wonderful!

24) Take afternoon tea at the Balmoral
With a resident harpist, marble pillars and chandeliers, the Palm Court at Edinburgh's Balmoral hotel is the perfect spot for afternoon tea. If you're celebrating, have something stronger - it's also home to Scotland's only Bollinger bar.
1 Princes Street, Edinburgh (0131 556 2414, www.thebalmoralhotel.com)

25) Try something different
Danielle Ellis is passionate about food. Her company offers demonstrations, tasting sessions, meet-the-chef events and walking tours for food lovers around Edinburgh and Glasgow.
Discover the Taste, 86 Belmont Road, Edinburgh (www.discoverthetaste.com)

26) Take a tip from Claire Macdonald
Wondering where to find the best kitchen knife or the best chocolate sauce? The renowned food writer has launched a range of cooking accessories and cupboard staples, available via her online shop. You can also sign up for one of her three-day demonstrations at her home on Skye.
Kinloch Lodge, Sleat, Isle of Skye (01471 833333, www.claire-macdonald.com)

27) Go wild at a farmers' market
Not just for the fruit and veg, but more unusual treats too, such as wild boar, ostrich and venison. Street markets are popping up as well - in Leith (which reopens in March) you'll find such gems as the Stoats Porridge Bar (stocking brown sugar, cream, whisky and honey) and Well Hung and Tender's gourmet burgers.
(www.scottishfarmersmarkets.com)
My regular Saturday morning involves a trip to Edinburgh Farmers Market, so another tick-off.

28) Join the slow food movement
Prince Charles had a point recently, when he urged society to slow down. This movement, which encourages its 83,000 members to savour their food and wine, now has a British branch. It needn't mean slaving over a casserole - taking time to savour a sandwich made with organic bread and a slice of Lanark Blue is an excellent start. (www.slowfood.com)

29) Catch your own
Dig out your rod and reel. For salmon, brown trout and sea trout, Scotland is an angler's dream.
(www.fishing-scotland.net)

30) Toast your last munro with champagne
What could be better than popping the cork at the summit of your 284th and final climb? If you've yet to conquer even one, start planning now. (www.munromagic.com)

31) Forage for wild mushrooms
Best done with a fungi-hunting gourmet chef, but if you've picked some dodgy-looking specimens on your own, take them to Valvona & Crolla's fungi surgery, where an expert will put your mind at ease.
19 Elm Row, Edinburgh (0131 556 6066)
I haven't foraged for wild mushrooms in Scotland, but I have spent endless hours foraging for various wild mushrooms in Estonia. And I have eaten wild mushrooms foraged by my Russian friend Galina in Scotland. So almost a tick-off.

32) Click on www.eatscotland.com
VisitScotland's latest initiative profiles the top places to eat out, the best food and drink producers and all sorts of regional specialities. You'll never be stuck for dinner again.

33) Visit the Teviot Smokery
Set in an 18th-century inn by the River Teviot, this Borders smokery produces smoked salmon, trout, duck, homemade smoked pâté and cheese. Just as impressive is its beautiful riverside garden.
Kirkbank House, Eckford, Kelso (01835 850253, www.teviotgamefaresmokery.co.uk)

34) Eat a Fisher & Donaldson custard slice
This bakery is the closest thing Scotland has to an original French-style patisserie. The shop in St Andrews also does Scotch pies and oatmeal skirlies, but this is gooey perfection.
13 Church Street, St Andrews (01334 472201, www.fisheranddonaldson.com)

35) Learn how to make sushi
Don't know your nigiri from your maki? Kumiko Hatori offers sushi-making lessons at her home in Glasgow. She charges £40 for two hours - all the equipment and ingredients are provided.
(0141 332 5707, www.learnsushi.co.uk)

36) Dine at Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles
Andrew Fairlie, the Scottish chef of the year, enjoyed international coverage when he cooked for world leaders during the recent G8 summit. Those who have been say his Michelin-starred food is worth every penny. And, remember, if it's good enough for Jacques Chirac...
Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder, Perthshire (0800 389 3737, www.gleneagles.com)

37) Have butteries for breakfast
Best eaten warm with butter and marmalade, these salty Aberdeenshire specialities make a tasty change from croissants. Available especially at bakeries in the north-east.

38) Go reindeer-spotting
Reindeer meat is a delicacy in Finland, but the herd in Aviemore - the only one in Britain - is free to roam the Cairngorm mountains. The farm puts on daily visits, but you'll be lucky if Rudolph gets anywhere near your plate. It might whet your appetite for some Highland game, though.
The Cairngorm Reindeer Centre, Glenmore, Aviemore (01479 861228, www.reindeer-company.demon.co.uk)

39) Make fajitas the authentic way
Spice up your kitchen cupboards with dried chillies, refried beans, spicy chorizo and tequila from the Mexican deli Lupe Pintos. Its website also features a recipe for a mean chilli con carne.
24 Leven Street, Edinburgh (0131 228 6241); 313 Great Western Road, Glasgow (0141 334 5444; www.lupepintos.com)
This is probably a tick-off, as I've bought stuff from Lupe Pintos often (remember the Fluff?), though never to make fajitas..

40) Sign up to a box scheme
You could trudge round the veg section of the supermarket every week, or you could experience the joy of having a whole box of fresh, locally grown goodies delivered direct to your door. Guaranteed to up your fruit and vegetable intake and introduce you to varieties you never knew existed.
See www.alotoforganics.co.uk for Scottish suppliers

41) Order fish from Ken Watmough
The Aberdeen fishmonger has had two royal appointments and been recommended by Rick Stein and Delia Smith. His vast knowledge of fish and seafood has been gathered over 40 years, so if you're wondering how to gut a sea bass, make him your first port of call.
Ken Watmough Fishmongers, 29 Thistle Street, Aberdeen (01224 640321)
Again, almost a tick-off, as I get my fish from Eddie's Fish Market in Marchmont which is used if not by the Royal Family, then by The Witchery restaurant. And that's good enough for me..

42) Learn to cook in a castle
Myres Castle, the luxury Fife retreat, offers one-day cookery classes in its Victorian kitchen, with renowned chef Christopher Trotter. After-dinner piano recitals in the drawing-room are optional.
Auchtermuchty, Fife (01337 828350, www.myres.co.uk)

43) Dine with the puffins
And guillemots, shags, kittiwakes, grey seals or even bottlenose dolphins, at the Scottish Seabird Centre. There's a cosy café (with an outside deck) offering homemade soups and sandwiches. The food is modest, but the location is stunning.
Scottish Seabird Centre, The Harbour, North Berwick (01620 890202, www.seabird.org)

44) Sample Mrs Unis's pakora
Mrs Unis has been distributing her pakora to corner shops in Edinburgh for more than 30 years. Unfortunately, a fire at her factory in May has halted production until next year. In the meantime, check out her restaurant for excellent curries, samosas, bhajis and, yes, pakora.
Mrs Unis, 99-101 Dalry Road, Edinburgh (0131 337 3852)

45) Enjoy lunchtime culture
The sculpture garden at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, in Edinburgh, is an inspired place for lunch or coffee - and the selection of cakes and Scottish cheeses is hard to resist. The café at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, on Queen Street, is a well-kept secret too.
(0131 624 6200, www.natgalscot.ac.uk)
Hmmm. I had a lovely lunch at The Gallery Restaurant just recently, in August, but I am yet to be inspired after a cuppa at these two cafes. I should be able to tick off the first one before, as I'm hoping to visit the Henri Cartier-Bresson exhibition before the end of the month.

46) Be a honey monster
Make sure your toast never goes without, with a visit to Chainbridge Honey Farm. There is a visitor centre, but you might prefer to get your paws straight on the stuff.
Horncliff, Berwick-upon-Tweed (01289 386362, www.chainbridgehoney.co.uk)

47) Pick your own
Summer entertainment for all the family. In season, raspberries, strawberries, blackcurrants, redcurrants and brambles run riot across Scotland.
For a comprehensive list of farms, see www.pickyourown.org/ukscotland.php.

48) Brighten up a grey day at Ndebele
This colourful Edinburgh deli is the place to come for South African delicacies such as biltong and boerewors sausages. Eat in, buy from the mini-market, ask for a delivery to your office (in central Edinburgh) or book it to cater for your own event (weddings included).
57 Home Street, Edinburgh (0131 221 1141, www.ndebele.co.uk)
Hurray, another tick-off! Am quite a frequent visitor to that place - that's where I had my lunch last Friday. Nbedele Salad plate with falafel and some interesting eggplant concoction whose name I can't remember. A very relaxed and nice place.
49) Sign up for a masterclass
Learn tips from the top at Kathellan Fine Food in Fife. The deli, which is set in 25 acres of farmland, also puts on a monthly class. The next is on Tuesday, November 8 with the food writer Maxine Clark, who will demonstrate venison recipes.
Kathellan, Home Farm, Fife (0871 226 2218, www.kathellan.co.uk)

50) Eat a deep-fried Mars Bar
Savour that well-known Scottish delicacy at its place of origin: the Bervie Chipper in Inverbervie, near Aberdeen. Best washed down with a bottle of Irn-Bru.
Oh no. I have survived 6 years in Edinburgh without eating this. Is there really no escape???

Opera Cake @ Plaisir du Chocolat, Edinburgh

I met a Greek Cypriot friend of mine, Zenon, for a coffee this lunchtime. He's leaving Edinburgh after studying here for 2 years and it was probably our last coffee before he's off. We therefore agreed to meet at a slightly "upmarket" coffee shop, namely in Plaisir du Chocolat. Melissa of the lovely The Traveller's Lunchbox has already written about this cute French coffee place, so I will be brief.
We went to the small coffeeshop (just across the "big sister" that sells an impressive range of chocolates in every possible guise) and had coffee and cakes. The coffee was really good, the place is cute in a very French way (no pictures, sorry, as I forgot my camera in the office). Zenon had a huge and tasty slice of strawberry & clotted cream cheesecake. And I had my first ever slice of Opera cake! I first read about that cake in Keiko's visually stunning Nordljus blog, and then also in A La Cuisine! I had been keen to try it ever since, so I got quite excited when I spotted it on the display, amongst the green tea loaf cake, pear and chocolate cake and other goodies. It was quite a big square piece, decorated with a single golden sugar pearl. Very rich and oh-so delicious. Mmmm!
I've added it to my "try to recreate soon" list of cakes (probably starting with this recipe from Epicurious). Which, by the way, has already become quite a lengthy list, as visiting other foodblogs has been a great inspiration. Thanks.