September was a predictably fruitful month in the watch world. Geneva Watch Days ran ahead like clockwork from September 2 to 6, with at least a dozen novelties introduced across the five-day affair. Many maisons returned from the summer break and kicked off fall by rolling out fresh pieces.
In the wave of new releases, some stood out. Rolex released an annual calendar inspired by the rare Reference 8171, a.k.a. the Padellone, which the Crown produced in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Hublot and Jeff Koons dropped a collection of quirky and colorful Classic Fusions shaped like the artist’s famous Balloon Dog sculpture and a bonkers six-figure tourbillon. That wasn’t the only collab that caught our eye. Tiffany & Co. teamed up with Italian glassmaker Venini on a new Eternity, and Atelier Wen partnered with Massena LAB on a tantalum timepiece. In a different, slightly more futuristic vein, H. Moser & Cie. unveiled a new digital watch with a haute horlogerie twist.
Below are the best watch releases of the month.
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IWC Ingenieur Automatic 50th Anniversary
Image Credit: IWC IWC celebrated the Ingenieur SL’s 50th birthday the best way possible, dropping two limited editions that take design cues from the Ref. 1832 that late watch designer Gérald Genta created in the 1970s. The two steel references, measuring 35 mm and 40 mm, respectively, both showcase silver-plated dials inspired by a rare variant from the ’70s rather than the grid-patterned face usually seen on the Ingenieur. A “50” is printed at 6 o’clock to commemorate the anniversary. The larger 40 mm variant is powered by IWC’s Caliber 32111 with a 120-hour power reserve, while the 35 mm runs on the in-house Caliber 47110 with a 42-hour power reserve. “50 years have passed since my father created the Ingenieur SL, and it amazes me how his work continues to inspire so many people decades later,” Alexia Genta, Genta’s daughter and cofounder of the Gérald Genta Heritage Association, said in a press statement. “I am honored to see how IWC is preserving his artistic legacy and building on his iconic design with their new Ingenieur.” Both are limited to 1,150 pieces, with the large retailing for $15,000 and the small priced at $12,900.
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Ulysse Nardin Freak One
Image Credit: Ulysse Nardin Ulysse Nardin decided to showcase some traditional métiers d’art on a very untraditional timepiece in September. The Swiss watchmaker unveiled two new versions of the Freak [ONE] that debuted in 2023, both of which feature classic decorative touches on the unconventional display inside the 44 mm titanium case. The duo makes the hour disc the star—remember, the Freak has no dial or hands, with the large barrel cover, a.k.a. the hour disc, and the movement (UN240) itself indicating the time instead. On both references, the hour discs are decorated with guilloché—one is vivid blue enamel, the other pairs a sandy hue with a diamond-pattern “maille” motif. Both are limited to 99 pieces, with the Freak [ONE BLUE ENAMEL] priced at $89,800 and the Freak [ONE GUILLOCHÉ] priced at $80,000.
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Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shùo
Image Credit: Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Cultures collided in the watch world this month, with New York-based Massena LAB, the studio founded by Swiss industry veteran William Massena, teaming up with Atelier Wen, the indie watchmaker that combines French design and Chinese craftsmanship. The product of that collaboration is a new 40 mm tantalum timepiece with a hand-engraved gold dial and an integrated bracelet. “I just had the idea of doing what I call a California dial, which is something you find on old Rolexes from the ’40s, and usually it’s Roman numerals at the top and Arabic numerals at the bottom, and we thought of switching that and making it half Chinese and half Western Arabic,” Massena explains. Beneath the beautiful dial is Girard-Perregaux’s automatic GP03300 movement with 48 hours of power reserve. The watch comes in two variations: 10 pieces with solid 18-karat white-gold dials, and 40 dials combining 18-karat white and rose gold. Both retail for $44,100.
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H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid
Image Credit: H. Moser & Cie. Moser put a haute horology spin on a smartwatch in September. The maison’s new Off-Grid is a cut above an Apple Watch, with a Streamliner-inspired design that combines a skeletonized dial and digital display showcasing fumé finishes. It offers an array of features for horophiles, including GMT, a split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon phase, and sunrise and sunset times. It can also switch to “OFF-GRID” mode, with quick country selection and a dictionary of 10 words in 21 languages. To top it off, the watch offers up to 12 months of power and is compatible with both iOS and Android. It is available in blue or black PVD and with a black or red fumé dial. Each version is limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at $4,900.
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Tiffany & Co. Unique Eternity
Image Credit: Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co.’s latest timepiece brings together gold, diamonds, and Murano glass. The newcomer, part of the Eternity watch collection, centers around a gorgeous glass dial made in partnership with Venini. On top of that sit 12 hand-set aquamarines, each showcasing a different cut. Adding further pizazz, the 28 mm cushion-shaped case, bracelet, and crown are crafted in 18-karat white gold and set with 500 diamonds totaling 5.47 carats. Inside lies a high-precision quartz movement. Tiffany is offering just five examples, each of which features a dial that was individually cut from a single piece of Venini glass. That ensures each one is unique. Price upon request.
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Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table the Metamorph Merlin
Roger Dubuis tipped a (wizard) hat to Merlin in September, unveiling a third and final timepiece inspired by the Arthurian legend. The newcomer, part of the Knights Of The Round Table collection, pays homage to Merlin’s shapeshifting powers with hand-engraved details that show the wizard in both human and animal forms. As with the two previous Merlin-inspired pieces, this iteration features the signature Excalibur case, a multi-dimensional dial with hexagonal columns reminiscent of the basalt formations at the Giant’s Causeway, and 12 mini knight sculptures that serve as hour markers. This time around, though, the 45 mm case is pink gold and the dial is deep green like the mythical forest where Merlin is said to have assumed multiple forms. The piece is limited to 28 pieces and priced at $439,000.
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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Image Credit: Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin was feelin’ blue in September. The Swiss watchmaker dropped a new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin featuring a white-gold case and a gorgeous azure blue dial—a combination it says is a first for the line. The limited edition is powered by the in-house Calibre 1120 QP/1—one of the thinnest movements in the category at just 8.1 mm thick—with a perpetual calendar that can account for leap years and months with 28, 30, and 31 days. The watch, released to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Overseas, comes with three interchangeable straps that can be swapped without tools. It is limited to 200 pieces and priced at $132,000.
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Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic
Image Credit: Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton gave the recently revived Monterey an edgy makeover in September, unveiling two new ceramic iterations. Released in 2025 in yellow gold, the original Monterey was inspired by the LV I and LV II that the French fashion house debuted in 1988. It featured the same pebble-like, lugless case 12 o’clock crown, and classic dial as those vintage pieces, but was equipped with an automatic calibre (LFTMA01.02) produced in-house at La Fabrique du Temps. The two newcomers pair all that with bold new colorways. One features a black ceramic case, a contrasting white lacquer dial with red accents, and a black leather strap; the other showcases a green ceramic case, a green lacquer dial with pops of yellow, and a green leather strap. Both are priced at $22,900. LV also released five colorful new Tambour Spin Times this month.
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Hublot x Jeff Koons
Image Credit: Hublot Hublot and Jeff Koons blew up the Classic Fusion in September. The duo unveiled a larger, more sculptural version of the Swiss watchmaker’s flagship model inspired by the American artist’s iconic Balloon Dog. The new collection includes three puffed-up pieces in bright, shiny hues of blue, red, and silver. “Working with Jeff Koons on this project was both an artistic and technical adventure,” Hublot CEO Julien Tornare said in a statement. “What appears effortless and playful is, in reality, an extraordinary exercise in engineering, craftsmanship, and detail.” Each one features a 42 mm case in polished anodized aluminum and a double-signed dial adorned with a “balloon tail” at 10:30, a date window at 3 o’clock, and a Balloon Dog-shaped counterweight seconds hand. Inside, the in-house HUB1710 automatic movement gives a 50-hour power reserve and can be spotted through the caseback. Each example is limited to 200 and priced at $24,100.
Hublot MP-14 Origin by Jeff Koons. Hublot Hublot also released the MP-14 Origin by Jeff Koons. It is the Swiss watchmaker’s first-ever automatic central tourbillon wristwatch and is suitably avant-garde in design. It features an octagonal-shaped 44 mm case made of titanium and sapphire that surrounds a dramatic display with diamond-encrusted gold rings that draw the eye to the blue-varnished sapphire dome covering the central tourbillon. “The MP-14 Origin by Jeff Koons is a horological interpretation of creation itself: the moment where energy becomes form and form becomes time,” explains Koons. It is limited to 30 examples and costs $488,000.
That’s not all, either. The Swiss watchmaker dropped two Big Bang Originals in a new “soft touch” rubber.
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Rolex Perpetual Padellone
Image Credit: Rolex Rolex rewound to the 20th century in September, releasing a watch inspired by the rare Reference 8171 it produced in very limited numbers for a few years in the late 1940s and early 1950s. The 8171 was affectionately nicknamed padellone, or “large frying pan” in English, due to its wide, flat case, inside of which lay a triple calendar (day, date, month) with a moon phase. The new, aptly named Perpetual Padellone retains the original’s vintage aesthetics, but is equipped with a new annual calendar (Caliber 7190) that automatically accounts for 30- and 31-day months and requires adjustment just once a year. Prices are $59,000 for the Everose version with a leather strap; $72,000 with a Settimo bracelet; and $66,200 for the platinum version with a leather strap.

