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Behind the Backbar

A Better Malört, Tamarind Punch and More at Nashville’s Exciting New Bar

June 18, 2026

Story: Mary Anne Porto

photo: Victoria Quirk

Behind the Backbar

A Better Malört, Tamarind Punch and More at Nashville’s Exciting New Bar

June 18, 2026

Story: Mary Anne Porto

photo: Victoria Quirk

Bar Roza is plugging some of the most interesting aperitifs and digestifs into a brand new drink template.

During my conversation with Owen Gibler, beverage director of the recently opened Bar Roza, he referenced ’70s italo disco, old-school soda jerks, international coffee and candy traditions, car mechanics, perfume theory and the world of computer programming. But for all of his wide-ranging inspirations, at Bar Roza, he has created something entirely new.

The main draw of the bar’s menu is the selection of Astors, “a drink template we made up,” according to Gibler. These cocktails comprise an ounce of an aperitif, three-quarters of an ounce of a digestif and a quarter ounce of a mix of lemon juice, Maldon salt, phosphate and rotating bitters that “act like a jig to hold everything together,” he says. Unlike most recipes that involve a base spirit with a modifier or two, Astors are, as Gibler puts it, “all modifier.” They call on products like aloe, saffron or lychee liqueur in combination with anything from a Swiss Alpine aperitif to a Mexican tamarind punch to a domestic take on Malört. They’re big in flavor, small in size; he likens them to shared plates.

A quick glance at the menu, which also includes a set of classics “for the majority of people who show up to a bar and aren’t crazy nerds,” revealed many bottles I’d never seen or heard of before. So I asked Gibler to outline the ingredients that really make the menu tick. Here are five essentials.

The Astors menu at Bar Roza.

Bar Roza, in Five Bottles

Letherbee Bësk

Bësk, which means “bitter” in Swedish, is similar to Malört, though Gibler says there’s no competition. “Jeppson’s is a dare shot and a bit of regret,” he says. This liqueur, on the other hand, “is incredible, like biting into a handful of grapefruit pits, with an 8-foot tail [in the form of] a boatload of wormwood,” he says, praising the finish that “legitimately lasts 45 to 60 seconds.” At Bar Roza, it stands up to the sweetness of lychee liqueur in an Astor called the Hex that’s finished with a spritz of cinnamon and citrus. When he serves it to guests, “you get a quizzical look on someone’s face, a smile and look of suspicion.” He also recommends using it like grapefruit bitters: If you accidentally batched a too-sweet Paloma, you could add a touch of Bësk to balance things out. At 50 percent ABV, it’s an intense spirit. “It also does actually kind of function as a dare shot,” he says, “but it’s way more fun.”

  • Price: $40 (750 milliliters)
  • From: Chicago
  • ABV: 50%

Pajarote Ponche de Tamarindo

Inspired by Mexican fruit punch and tamarind chile candy, this tangy liqueur comes from Guadalajara. The base is a sugarcane distillate that’s sweetened with piloncillo (aka panela), a rich unrefined sugar used throughout Latin America. When Gibler tasted it, it reminded him of visits to Mexico and the memory of coffee sweetened with the sugar, so he paired it with J. Rieger & Co.’s Caffè Amaro in an Astor called The Tugboat. At home, he recommends throwing it directly into hot or iced coffee, using it as a punch or mixing it with fresh fruit juice, like pressed green apple.

  • Price: $30 (750 milliliters)
  • From: Guadalajara, Mexico
  • ABV: 15%

Apalogue Saffron Spiced Liqueur

Recently, saffron’s become a star ingredient in cocktails, showing up everywhere from Martinis to Paper Planes. This product, from Chicago-based Apologue, makes it easy to channel the flavor at home—in an accessible way. “Apologue Saffron sits at the very front of the menu because of its approachability and lightness,” says Gibler. It combines the luxurious spice with ingredients like cardamom, lemongrass and golden raisins, and it can complete a range of cocktails or even be enjoyed neat or on the rocks. For an Astor called the Argonaut, Gibler pairs it with a red wine-based gentian liqueur that’s soft and savory; together the duo is “nearly glowing orange.”

  • Price: $43 (750 milliliters)
  • From: Chicago
  • ABV: 30%

Oban 14 Year Single Malt Scotch

This is Gibler’s favorite Scotch. He describes it as self-assured, not trying to be overly burly and brusque: “It’s right in the middle of comfort with tropical fruit bits in front, and it’s smoky, but not bracingly so,” he says. Pairing it with Bénédictine and vermouth, as he does in the house take on a Bobby Burns, is a classy move. “It’s like, I’m an adult who knows how to drink cocktails and I’m very happy I’m doing it,” he says. He tops the drink with an atomized spritz of aromatic garnish (more on that below) that the team calls Hop & Barley, made with the two namesake ingredients, plus botanicals like myrrh, sage and coriander.

  • Price: $76 (750 milliliters)
  • From: Highland, Scotland
  • ABV: 43%

House Spirits

Throughout the menu are splashes of custom spirits, like that Hop & Barley mix, by Gibler and the Bar Roza team. He took a perfumer’s approach, researching the relationship between top, middle and bottom notes and how each can elongate the flavor and finish of a distillate. It was an exacting process: “This is scales and droppers, not quick pours and tastes with the back of a spoon,” he says. 

For the coffee liqueur used in a Carajillo-like drink, for example, he diluted neutral grain spirit with espresso and used essences made from extracts, oils, aldehydes and terpenes in dropping funnels, steeped for days at a time, to get the specific layered flavors he desired. The end result was a mix of “cocoa nib extract, tonka accord (not the same as tonka bean), vanilla absolute, cardamom, nutmeg, allspice, pink peppercorn, blood orange, clementine, neroli, frankincense, ylang ylang and peppermint.” 

But “I just don’t want to tell everyone all of that,” he said a few weeks before opening. All of the behind-the-scenes work is meant to further the experience, whether a guest wants a heady explainer of the chemistry behind the cocktail or to simply enjoy something surprising and delicious. “I’m just hoping people come in and order a drink, and I give it to them, and then they love it.”


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